Here are the 25 most popular dog names across the USA. See if your pup makes the list!
1. Max
2. Buddy
3. Molly
4. Bailey
5. Maggie
6. Daisy
7. Lucy
8. Sadie
9. Bella
10. Charlie
11. Princess
12. Lucky
13. Rocky
14. Coco
15. Bear
16. Jake
17. Shadow
18. Jack
19. Toby
20. Angel
21. Chloe
22. Harley
23. Abby
24. Sophie
25. Ginger
As thousands of U.S. homeowners face foreclosure, countless pets are facing an uncertain future. Nationwide, animal shelters report a sharp increase in the number of dogs and cats who are surrendered because of foreclosures and financial woes.
But that doesn’t account for the scores of helpless pets whose families have lost their homes and actually left them behind.
‘”This problem of pets being left behind in foreclosed homes is crossing all boundaries. It’s something we’re seeing in all kinds of homes, in all types of neighborhoods,” says Jodi Polanski, a Mortgage professional in Scottsdale, AZ, and founder of the nonprofit “Lost Our Home Pet Foundation”.
After coming across dozens of wayward dogs and cats in foreclosed homes throughout metropolitan Phoenix, Polanski enlisted the support of other concerned real estate professionals to rescue pets who’d been left behind. Since Lost Our Home Pet Foundation began its efforts in July, Polanski says the organization has received at least one call for help every day and has rescued an average of 10 animals per week.
Now, the all-volunteer group runs a pet-food bank that provides struggling Pet Parents with free animal food or basic pet supplies; recruits temporary foster care for pets whose families need time to find a new place to live; and helps Pet Parents who know they’re going to lose their house to find pet-friendly rental properties. When they can afford to, Polanski and her team will even help Pet Parents pay for veterinary expenses.
The group’s largest-single rescue involved 20 dogs in a palatial, 4,400-square foot home in the Phoenix suburb of Gilbert. The house – which would fetch $675,000 even in today’s market – had been gutted, and 20 dogs were left inside to fend for themselves.
At another property in Phoenix, one of Polanski’s colleagues found a family cat who’d been struggling to survive on her own for weeks. Dehydrated, starving and battling an infection brought on by lack of nourishment, all that veterinarians could do was euthanize her to end her suffering.
“It looked as if they put out some food and water when they left, and they must have assumed that someone would find her right away. By the time a realtor was let into the house, all the food and water were gone and the poor kitty was on the brink of death,” she said.
Members of Lost Our Home Pet Foundation suggest the following when you are in a situation where you have to move:
§ Never, ever leave pets behind. It can be several days or even several weeks before anyone returns to the foreclosed home. Not only is it inhumane to abandon a pet, it also can be illegal. In some communities, abandoning a pet can lead to charges of animal cruelty or neglect.
§ Plan ahead. “Foreclosure is not an overnight event, so many Pet Parents have time to begin looking for pet-friendly housing or exploring humane options,” Polanski said. “Don’t put off finding help for your pets until the 11th hour. In our case, the more planning that Pet Parents put into this, the easier if is for us to help them. But if they wait until the last minute, it’s much harder for us to find foster placement or other resources they need.”
§ Network with pet lovers who can help – at least for a while. Talk to trusted friends, family members and co-workers and find out if they can house your pet(s) on a short-term basis. If someone you know is willing to provide temporary care, introduce your pet(s) to him or her in advance. If your pet(s) can build a bond with this caregiver, it will make the transition into his or her home that much easier. While your pet is in temporary care, arrange to visit regularly. Also offer to help out with daily walks, yard scooping and litterbox cleaning if you can. If you’re financially able, continue buying (or chip in to buy) your pet’s food and basic supplies while she’s in temporary housing.
§ Look for pet-friendly housing. Many apartment complexes and other rental properties allow pets these days. If you lose your home, you need to find a new place to live – so why not make it one of the many rental communities where your pets are welcome?
§ Talk to your pet’s veterinarian. Let him or her know about the situation and find out if he or she is willing to accept monthly payments for services, offer a reduced fee or otherwise work with you until you’re back on your financial feet.
§ Contact a shelter or pet-rescue group in your area. Many shelters and rescue groups are developing or expanding programs and services to help Pet Parents during these uncertain economic times. If you must surrender your pet, keep in mind that he will have a chance to find a loving, new family. Your local shelter or rescue group might also know about other resources in the community where you can find help caring for pets.
Height: averages 10 inches (male); averages 9 1/2 inches (female).
Weight: up to 25 pounds.
History:
The Skye Terrier comes originally from the northern Scottish Isle of Skye. The breed may have begun when Maltese dogs from shipwrecked Spanish vessels mated with local terriers. Others say small Basset-type dogs crossed with the locals. At any rate, the Skye type has existed for several centuries. Like many British terriers, the Skye was developed as a vermin hunter. In the mid-1800’s, Queen Victoria took a fancy to the breed and it became very popular for awhile, especially among the nobility. Later, the breed’s popularity waned. The Skye Terrier is very loyal, tuned in to his master. Legend has it that a Skye named “Bobby” stayed faithfully by the grave of his deceased master for ten years before he, too, passed away. Townspeople fed him and gave him a license to remain in the graveyard. After he died, they erected a monument commemorating the dog’s great loyalty. The Skye Terrier was first shown in England in 1864 and first registered with the AKC in 1887. Today the beautiful Skye Terrier is primarily a companion, though he can still help control vermin.
Description:
The Skye is an elegant, long, low terrier. The body length should be twice the height at the withers. The Skye Terrier is sturdy, with solid bone. The head is long with a powerful jaw and slight stop. The Skye’s 6 inch-long harsh coat drapes from a part down the middle of the back. Underneath the longer hair lies a soft undercoat. The coat comes in blue, many shades of gray, cream, fawn or black, with darker points. The prick or folded ears are always black and heavily feathered with hair (the folded ear is rare today. A small amount of white is permitted on the chest. Hair also shields and protects the eyes and forehead. The eyes are brown and the nose is black. The hare-like feet are long and large, pointing straight forward. The long, well-feathered tail hangs down, unlike the docked, erect tail of many other terrier breeds.
Notes:
The long, straight coat needs frequent attention or it will mat. The puppy coat is quite different from the adult coat. It may take several years before the adult coat develops completely. A very healthy breed.
Personality:
Sensitive, loyal, protective, a bit willful. Courageous, spunky, and bold. Loving and playful, yet more serious than many terriers. Needs a lot of attention to be happy. This breed requires extensive early socialization with people or he may grow up to be overly suspicious of strangers. He often does not like to be touched by strangers and may bite. Be careful around other small animals as the Skye likes to chase.
Behavior:
Friendliness: Reserved with strangers.
Independence: Moderately dependent on people.
Dominance: High.
Other Pets: Not generally trustworthy with other pets.
Combativeness: Can be a bit dog-aggressive.
Grooming and Physical Needs:
Grooming: Extensive grooming needed.
Coat: Long coat.
Shedding: Average shedder.
Exercise: Little exercise needed.
Indoors: Relatively inactive indoors.
Apartments: Good for apartment living.
Outdoor Space: Does all right without a yard.
Climate: Does well in most climates.
Longevity: Average (10 to 12 years).
If you have a social dog who loves to run and play, there are few places that top the dog park in terms of fun. If you do decide to head out for some romp and roll, here are a few tips on what to leave behind to ensure that you—and your pooch—maximize the pleasures of the park.
10. Your baby/toddler stroller: Dogs have little else on their minds than jumping, wrestling, playing and fetching when they’re at the dog park. And you can’t rely on them to be on the lookout for people large or small. Adults can be knocked over by speeding dog trains—so think about what that kind of force can do to an unsuspecting toddler or infant standing up or strapped into a stroller. No matter how diligent and watchful you are, there’s just no way to predict the movements of excited dogs at the dog park so it’s best to leave strollers at home. Some dog parks even have rules against children under a certain age playing inside, so be sure to know the dog park rules in your area.
9. Your high heeled or brand new leather shoes: The dog park can be a messy place. When you’re going—take a cue from your pup—stay casual. This includes wearing shoes that are comfortable and that you won’t mind getting scuffed up, drooled on, or covered in dirt and mud. Wearing appropriate footwear will also ensure that you can react quickly when you need to if your dog encounters an unfriendly playmate.
8. Dog treats: Remember the rule you learned in grade school about not eating treats if you don’t have enough to share with everyone? It also applies at the dog park! And even if you do have enough for every dog at the park, you still shouldn’t bring them. No matter how well concealed, they’ll simply act as a distraction for pups who are at the park to romp, roll and get some exercise in. Wait to reward your pup until you get home—when he can really enjoy a rest and a treat.
7. Your aggressive or un-spayed/un-neutered dog or a dog in heat: Not all dogs are cut out for the dog park. If your dog has behavioral issues, hire a trainer or behaviorist who can help him acclimate to other dogs in a safe, controlled environment and can help you determine when, if ever, your pet is ready for the dog park. It’s also best to spay and neuter your pets before hitting the dog park. Canines can revert to pack behavior at the park and a dog whose body is giving off certain hormones can become a distraction or target for packs of dogs.
6. Expensive or beloved toys from home: Unless it’s a toy you’re willing to part with or don’t mind having destroyed, don’t bring it to the dog par. Remember, dogs don’t know the difference between tennis balls lying around the park and your dog’s beloved squeaky toy. Chances are other dogs will be attracted to your dog’s toys and will eventually get their paws on them (and may not be too quick to return them). Besides that, your own dog may become territorial about or protective of her own toys.
5. Your iPod, cell phone, book or newspaper: It’s okay to think of the dog park as a place to decompress but also remember that you need to be alert and able to react quickly to your dog. Whether it’s cleaning up after he relieves himself at the far end of the park or breaking up some interaction with an unfriendly dog, be prepared to have all eyes on your pup at all times. Don’t tempt distraction by listening to music, talking on the phone or reading.
4. Your desire to power walk, sunbathe or run errands: It’s not okay to “drop your dog off” at the dog park literally or figuratively. Your dog’s playtime simply isn’t a time to check out and work on things you’ve been meaning to get to. It’s a time for you and your dog to play together and bond. Save the extracurricular activities for another time.
3. Your food and drink: This one should go without saying, but be sure to get in any snacks before or after you hit the dog park. Dogs can’t help themselves—they’ll want your food or drink and they won’t be shy about showing it. And that sort of behavior just detracts from what they’re at the dog park for—to have fun!
2. Your purse: Consider investing in some soft of dog-park-only bag. This way you can keep your purse safe and sound at home and still keep your necessities with you at the park. It’s convenient too—you can keep your dog-park-only bag stocked with poop picku-up bags, a tennis ball and anything else you need to grab and run out to the dog park.
And the number one thing to leave behind when you hit the dog park is:
1. Your bad day: Dog parks are all about fun and good energy. Most cities that host them have rules against foul language or abusive behavior because they have to. Leave any negative feelings about a bad day at work or a fight with your significant other behind and make a conscious effort to stay positive, cooperative, responsible and accountable when you walk through the gates of the dog park.
The St. Bernard is a hard worker known for their loyalty and dedication. They are bred in both long and short hair varieties along with what is commonly referred to as dry and wet mouths. The St. Bernard were widely used in Switzerland in valley farms and alpine dairies for a variety of guarding, herding, and drafting duties. They actually aided traveler’s crossing the treacherous passes between Switzerland and Italy. St. Bernard’s love children, but because of their large size, it could lead to an unintentional accident while playing. They need lots of room and exercise. So if you have the space and time to exercise your dog, St. Bernard’s make good house pets and companions.
Does hybrid vigor, the notion that dogs which are less related have increased fertility and health, really exist? Sure. It just doesn’t occur quite as often as people think because it is more than a matter of not mating the same breed. People assume that as long as the bitch and stud are different breeds, the offspring will be healthy, but that’s not necessarily true or false. Despite popular claims of hybrid vigor in all mixed breeds, it does not occur in all dogs of this type just because they are mixed breeds. Hybrid vigor occurs among dogs which have the least amount of genetic background in common; they generally have increased fertility and better health than those with a common heritage.
However, because you don’t know the background of the mixed breed, you cannot know for sure what genetic background the dog may share. And if each of two mixed-breed parents is predisposed to the same health problems, a mixed-breed dog can have those problems, too. In short, don’t assume that because your dog is not purebred that he is going to be wonderfully healthy and never need to see the vet except for annual exams.
Height: 10 to 12 inches.
Weight: up to 30 pounds (male); up to 28 (female).
History:
There are several theories about the origins of the Welsh Corgi. Both Corgi varieties may be descended from Swedish Vallhunds brought to Wales by Vikings in the 800’s. Or perhaps the Cardigan is the older variety, brought to Wales by the Celts in about 1200 BC (the name Corgi comes from the Celtic word for dog, “corgi”). Another source claims that the Pembroke variety was brought to Wales by Flemish weavers in the 1100’s. No matter what the breed’s true early history, the Pembroke Welsh Corgi breed developed in Pembrokeshire, Wales, and was used to drive cattle by nipping their heels and barking. His low stature helped him run under the cattle’s legs without getting injured by kicks. The Pembroke and Cardigan varieties were freely interbred until the 1930’s, after which time breeders tried to accentuate their differences. A Pembroke Welsh Corgi is well-known as the favorite breed and pet of Queen Elizabeth II. Because of royal favor, and perhaps because of a slightly gentler personality, the Pembroke Welsh Corgi has become very popular, while the Cardigan is not as widespread.
Description:
A long, low dog with large erect ears, a broad flat skull and a fox-like head. The Pembroke’s tail is almost non-existent; the Cardigan variety has a long tail. The Pembroke’s eyes are dark, preferably with black rims, and the nose is black. The soft coat comes in red, sable, fawn or black and tan, usually with white markings. The Pembroke generally has straighter legs and is not quite as long-bodied as the Cardigan. The Pembroke’s head is generally more wedge-shaped, with pointed ears.
Notes:
Tends to nip at people’s heels (herding behavior), though this behavior can be trained out. A good traveler. Prone to PRA, glaucoma and back disorders. Don’t overfeed as this breed tends to put on weight easily.
Personality:
Hardy, highly intelligent, obedient, protective and devoted. Spunky. A large dog in a small dog’s body. A good obedience dog. Should be properly socialized and trained when young to avoid over-protective behavior as an adult. Some Pembrokes are more outgoing, restless and excitable than the Cardigan Welsh Corgi. Several of these brave dogs have lost their lives defending their homes; they were too small for the situation.
Behavior:
Children: Best with older, considerate children.
Friendliness: Reserved with strangers.
Independence: Not particularly dependent or independent.
Other Pets: Good with other pets if raised with them from puppyhood.
Combativeness: Friendly with other dogs.
Grooming and Physical Needs:
Grooming: A little grooming needed.
Coat: Short coat.
Shedding: Average shedder.
Exercise: Moderate exercise needed.
Indoors: Very active indoors.
Apartments: Will be OK in an apartment if sufficiently exercised.
Outdoor Space: Does all right without a yard.
Climate: Does well in most climates.
Longevity: Moderately long lived (12 to 15 years).
So what can you do to help when there’s a storm brewing with loud thunder crashing and Bruno, your beloved Great Dane, is shivering and quaking like a bowl of jello? Well, step one is for you to understand as much as you can about the cause of fear in our canine friends.
According to dog behavior experts, dogs have two types of fear, instinctual and learned. Instinctual fear is core for every canine and can range from fear of loud noises such as gun shots, and explosions, or even the noise of the blender as you prepare your morning smoothie. It can also include a natural fear of predatory animals such as coyotes, wolves and bears.
Learned fear comes about from a trauma-based experience. Experts believe dogs imprint trauma into memory at an early age, between 2 and 4 months, and these memories can affect the dog’s behavior into adulthood. For example, if a dog is struck by a bicycle or attacked by a larger dog early in life, the dog may be fearful of bicycles or large dogs in adulthood.
To help your dog overcome his fear, desensitization is key, experts say. For instance, if you’re afraid of heights, you might try to overcome that fear by gradually experiencing new heights, say by stepping up a ladder and reaching a higher rung every other day until you can climb all the way up to change that light bulb. Repeating the behavior without negative consequences is essential to mastering the fear for your dog as well.
According to John Sievila, owner of Arizona K-9 Partnership, a dog training company serving Phoenix, Arizona for over a decade, the key to helping dogs overcome their fears is for the Pet Parent to be the Alpha (leader) by example which means not showing any fear, and not trying to comfort them.
“It is human nature for us to try to console our canines when they are fearful, but doing so will have an adverse effect. Remember that dogs don’t comprehend language the way you and I do. When they become fearful and if we use a high voice to console them it sounds like whining and can be construed that we are fearful, too. The thing to remember is to be confident and ignore the perceived danger and when the dog does the same praise them in a strong, confident way. You will be amazed at the results.”
So back to Bruno. There he is, a 165-pound bundle of nerves. Resist the impulse to try to soothe him with baby talk, or pet and reassure him. Instead get a leash, hook him up and review your basic obedience steps for 15 minutes. Speak to him with confidence and exude your leadership personality. He will see you are not scared but in control. He will relax in time if you are consistent.
If your dog is afraid of storms, help desensitize him by purchasing an audio tape or video tape of thunderstorms and play it repeatedly. If your dog fears blenders, turn on the blender every evening while you are feeding your dog. He will get accustomed to it and even begin to associate it with dinner time.
Use your creativity to figure out more ways to desensitize dogs to things they have imprinted as scary. It works!
Ear mites are microscopic parasites that live in the ear canals of infected dogs and cats. These mites are highly contagious and can be found in whole litters of kittens or, less frequently, in puppies. Adult pets can also be infected.
Signs of ear mites include:
· a dark, crusty material is usually found in the ear canal of infected pets
· head shaking
· scratching at the ears
· often, a secondary bacterial infection is present
Untreated infections can lead to ear canal or eardrum damage.
Diagnosis is based on symptoms and laboratory tests. It is often necessary to examine ear discharge microscopically to confirm the presence of mites.
Treatment consists of one of several topical ear medications and/or injections to kill the parasites. With some medications, routine ear cleanings may be needed.
Important points:
· Use all prescribed medications as directed by your veterinarian
· Depending on which treatment is used, the ears may need to be cleaned prior to and during treatment- ask your pet’s veterinarian.
· With some medications, it may be necessary to treat the ears for at least 3 weeks to kill mites as they hatch- ask your pet’s veterinarian.
· It is important to check your pet’s progress in 10 to 14 days.
The Dutch Shepherd is definitely a family dog. He will equally consider each family member his own; however, he will be most loyal to the person who raised him. A consistent, gentle attitude toward him is the ideal way to allow his many qualities to fully develop. Do not try to raise this breed with a hard-hand; they are very sensitive to their surroundings as well emotions. They are alert, happy and active in a home that gives them plenty of attention and lots of exercise. Daily walks or runs alongside a bicycle are the perfect exercise. A good relationship with his owner is the key to a happy family dog. The Dutch Shepherd is still active as a working dog used for police work, rescue, agility, obedience or his original job–herding!
