Left to their own devices, most puppies learn to control their biting reflex from their mothers and from their littermates. When the puppy becomes overenthusiastic, whether when nursing or playing, the mother dog, or the other puppies, will quickly issue a correction.

Unfortunately, this type of natural correction often does not occur, since many puppies are removed from their mothers when they are still quite young. It is therefore up to the puppy’s owner to take over this important process.

Socializing the puppy with other dogs and puppies is one of the best and most effective ways to teach the puppy the appropriate, and non appropriate way to bite, and to curb the biting response.

Many communities and pet stores sponsor puppy playtime and puppy kindergarten classes, and these classes can be great places for puppies to socialize with each other, and with other humans and animals as well. As the puppies play with each other, they will natural bite and nip each other. When one puppy becomes too rough or bites too hard, the other puppies will quickly respond by correcting it.

The best time for this socialization of the puppy to occur is when it is still young. It is vital that every dog be properly socialized, since a poorly socialized dog, or worse, one that is not socialized at all, can become dangerous and even neurotic. Most experts recommend that puppies be socialized before they have reached the age of 12 weeks, or three months.

Another reason for socializing the puppy early is that mothers of young children may be understandably reluctant to allow their young children to play with older or larger dogs. Since socializing the dog with other people is just as important as socializing it with other dogs, it is best to do it when the puppy is still young enough to be non threatening to everyone.

It is important for the puppy to be exposed to a wide variety of different stimuli during the socialization process. The socialization process should include exposing the puppy to a wide variety of other animals, including other puppies, adult dogs, cats and other domestic animals. In addition, the puppy should be introduced to as wide a cross section of people as possible, including young children, older people, men, women and people from a variety of ethnic backgrounds.

While socialization is very important to providing the puppy with life lessons and preventing him from biting, it is not the only method of preventing unwanted biting and mouthing. Giving the puppy appropriate things to play with and bite is another good way to control inappropriate biting. Providing a variety of chew toys, ropes and other things the puppy can chew is important to preventing boredom, keeping his teeth polished and keeping him from chewing things he should not.

As with any training, it is important to be consistent when teaching the puppy not to bite. Every member of the family, as well as close friends who may visit, should all be told that the puppy is to be discouraged from biting. If one person allows the puppy to chew on them while everyone else does not, the puppy will quickly become confused, and that can make the training process much more difficult than it has to be.

Minature Poodle

Height: 11 to 15 inches.
Weight: 15 to 17 pounds.

History:
The Poodle is most likely descended from early German water retrievers but also may be related to spaniels from the Iberian Peninsula. The name “poodle” probably derives from the German word “Pudel” (one who plays in the water). Hunters clipped the dog’s thick coat to help him swim, leaving hair on the leg joints to protect them from extreme cold and sharp reeds. The French capitalized on the breed’s high intelligence, trainability and innate showmanship to use the Poodle as a circus performer. The breed’s great popularity in that country led to the common name, “French Poodle”. In France, however, the Poodle is called the “Caniche”, or duck dog. The Poodle has also been used to sniff out truffles lying underground in the woods. Poodles are depicted in 15th century paintings and in bas-reliefs from the 1st century. Toy Poodles became royal favorites, particularly in the 18th century. The Toy and Miniature Poodle varieties were bred down from larger dogs, today known as Standard Poodles. The three sizes are considered as one breed, and are judged by the same standard. Today, the Poodle is primarily a companion and show dog, though he can learn almost anything.

Description:
The Poodle’s dense curly coat may be groomed into three basic styles, pet clip (or puppy clip) which is mostly relatively short hair all over the body, English saddle clip, or the continental (lion clip) with the rear half of the body shaved, bracelets left around the ankles and pom-poms left on the tail and hips. Always a solid color, the poodle may be black, blue, silver, gray, cream, apricot, red, white, brown or cafe-au-lait. His feet are small, oval and webbed, with arched toes. The ears are long, flat and wide, lying close to the head. The head is long with dark, almond-shaped eyes and an alert expression.

Notes:
Ears should be cleaned regularly and excess hair removed from the insides. For the longer grooming styles, the coat requires brushing several times a week. Unless trained otherwise, the Miniature Poodle tends to bark a lot. 

Personality:
The poodle is a cheerful, super smart, sensitive and highly trainable companion dog. The breed is great at learning tricks and he is very amusing and clever.  Some love to play with children but some are sensitive and nervous. Tends to be quite reserved with strangers–socialize extensively as a puppy. 

Behavior:
Children: Best with older, considerate children.
Friendliness: Reserved with strangers.
Independence: Moderately dependent on people.
Dominance: Low.
Other Pets: Generally good with other pets.
Combativeness: Friendly with other dogs.
Noise: Likes to bark.

Grooming and Physical Needs:
Grooming: Extensive grooming needed.
Coat: Curly coat.
Shedding: Very light.
Exercise: Moderate exercise needed.
Indoors: Very active indoors.
Apartments: Good for apartment living.
Outdoor Space: Does all right without a yard.
Climate: Does well in most climates.
Longevity: Moderately long lived (12 to 15 years).

If your pup is showing signs of “slowing down” or seems to be acting a bit sluggish, she could be demonstrating signs of hypothyroidism.

Hypothyroidism happens when the thyroid gland doesn’t produce enough of the essential hormones needed in the regulation of many vital body functions. It usually develops gradually and is rare in cats.

Common signs of hypothyroidism include:

• Weight gain
• Reduced activity
• Decreased energy
• Dry, flaky skin
• Chronic skin and ear infections
• Hair loss
• Darkening of skin pigmentation
• Droopy or sad facial expression

Diagnosis is based on symptoms, examination findings and blood work that includes testing the level of thyroid hormone present.

Treatment usually consists of medication that replaces the missing thyroid hormone. If your dog is placed on replacement hormones, the thyroid level must be checked one to two months later, after any medicaiton adjustments and at occasional periods after to ensure proper dosage. Health issues associated with hypothyroidism such as skin or ear infections, will also need appropriate treatment.

In general, dogs on replacement hormones appear to feel better and experience increased energy, excess weight loss and improvements in skin or ear problems.

If you’re concerned about your dog, schedule an appointment with your veterinarian.  If the diagnosis is positive, management of the condition is easy and your pup will feel so much better!

Height:       male: 23.5-27.5 in.; female: 22.5-25.5 in.

Weight:       male: 71-82 lbs.; female: 62-71 lbs.

Life Span:  12-14 yrs. 

The Spinone Italiano is a very talented hunting dog.  His tracking abilities are keen and his “soft” mouth retrieves game unspoiled.  The Spinone also has a terrific personality and is a gentle dog who is devoted and very willing to please.  They are considered more of a hound than a pointer and is not known to be a barker, whiny or bossy.

“Zeus” was a dog who shared a common problem. Like many dogs, he was deathly afraid of thunderstorms. Fortunately, Zeus, and his owner have found ways to manage his thunder phobia.

Dogs can sense subtle changes in barometric pressure, so they may sense a thunderstorm an hour or more before it hits. Dogs who suffer thunder anxiety may pant, pace, salivate, and paw at doors excessively before a storm, and when thunder sounds, they may shiver, whimper, or even become destructive, scratching at doors and floors, possibly to the point that they hurt themselves. This was the case with Zeus.

Zeus was a golden retriever who found a simple way to deal with his fear of thunder. He was a sensitive soul.  His owner would put Zeus in a kennel while she was away at work. One day when it started to storm, she worried about Zeus and went home to check on him.

By the time she got there, he had gotten out of his kennel. He was so afraid, he was able to bend the metal bars and squeeze out. Not only did Zeus destroy his kennel, but he also hurt himself getting out–his face was swollen and cut from the ordeal. During another incident, Zeus was outside during a storm and trying to get inside, he scratched at the door so violently he demolished the door and wore his toenails down until his paws were bleeding.

The solution to Zeus’ problem was surprisingly simple. He and his owner came to an understanding: She told him she wouldn’t put him in the crate anymore if he found a place in the house he could go to feel safe during thunderstorms. Eventually Zeus found that lying in the upstairs bathtub made him feel more secure during thunderstorms.

She knew an hour ahead of time that a storm was coming, because Zeus would head upstairs and look at me as if to say ‘I’ll be in the tub if you need me.’ In the tub, Zeus calmed down, his breathing and heart rates became normal, and he wasn’t hurting himself.

When asked to theorize why Zeus chose the bathtub, she says, “The bathtub is such a strong, solid appliance that when the thunder shakes the house a little, the tub may muffle the vibrations.” The bathtub is a cool, quiet place, and that her bathroom doesn’t have any windows, keeping Zeus from seeing the lightning, which also triggers anxiety in some dogs.

For years, veterinarians have prescribed sedatives to calm dogs during storms, but these medications may sedate a dog, but the dog may still feel anxious even though it doesn’t show signs of agitation. Of course, you can’t ask the dog if it still feels anxious, but now there are drugs on the market that are specifically made to treat anxiety, not hyperactivity.

Aside from medical treatment, behaviorists recommend counter-conditioning and desensitization. To counter-condition your dog, teach him to settle and relax on command. Train him to go to his bed and lay down on command when it’s not thundering, so when the thunder comes, he already understands that command.

Often pet owners do the opposite; by offering a pet treats, praise, and consolation petting when the animal is panting, pacing, and whimpering, they are essentially rewarding the pet for acting anxious.

Playing CDs or audio tapes of thunderstorms to desensitize a pet to the noise is also helpful. Start it out quietly, and then play it a little louder. At the same time, tell the dog to go to its bed and relax, and reward them for lying down and relaxing.

Another solution to try is a Dog Appeasing Pheromone (DAP) diffuser, an over-the counter product available at most pet stores. It looks just like a Glade Plug-In! The diffuser releases a pheromone that is similar to the one that mother dogs release when their puppies are nursing. It’s supposed to be very calming, and you simply plug it into the wall and keep one around during storm season.  You may want to combine a DAP diffuser with behavioral training and drug therapy.

Pet owners can learn from Zeus that there are several options for dealing with a thunder-phobic pet, from medications and pheromones to training, or simply letting the pet seek out its own hide-out.  Often dogs will let us know what they need if we just give them the opportunity.

For more information on thunder phobia, behavior, anti-anxiety medications, or DAP diffusers and your pet, consult your veterinarian.

Scottish Deerhound

Height: over 30 inches (male); over 28 inches (female).
Weight: 85 to 110 pounds (male); 75 to 95 (female).

History:
The Scottish Deerhound was a deer hunting dog of the Scottish chieftains in the Middle Ages. The Deerhound was once so popular with Scottish high nobility that the breed became known as the royal dog of Scotland. No one ranking below Earl was permitted to own one. The advent of gun hunting, development of fenced agriculture (which cut up the wide open spaces needed for such deer hunts), and the fall of the Scottish clan system, resulted in the decline of the Scottish Deerhound. The breed almost became extinct. However, interest revived in the 1800’s and the breed was saved, largely due to the efforts of two brothers, Archibald and Duncan Mc Neill. Queen Victoria became a Deerhound fancier, and Sir Walter Scott also owned one. Though it was very difficult to feed these large dogs during World War II in Britain, and many people destroyed their dogs for lack of food, some dedicated Deerhound owners held out and saved their dogs. Today, this agile sighthound is primarily a companion, though he is sometimes still used to hunt rabbits and coyotes and for lure coursing.

Description:
The Scottish Deerhound is a tall slim sighthound, with a shaggy 3-4 inch long coat, beard, mustache and mane. The harsh, wiry coat comes in various shades of gray (blue-gray preferred), fawn, or brindle, with dark ears and tapering dark muzzle.  The hair is softer on the underparts and head. The eyes are either chestnut or hazel, and the nose is a dark color.  The soft ears lie back against the head unless the dog is excited, in which case, they become half-pricked. The body closely approximates that of a large greyhound, with straight forelegs, powerful arched loin and tucked up abdomen. The long straight or curved tail nearly reaches the ground.

Personality:
A very gentle and amiable breed. Quiet, loving and peaceable. Very courageous and dignified. Devoted and loyal. Somewhat willful–can be slow to obey commands, but generally naturally well-behaved. Excellent with considerate children. 

Behavior:
Friendliness: Loves everyone.
Independence: Moderately dependent on people.
Dominance: Low.
Other Pets: Generally good with other dogs; do not trust with non-canine pets.
Combativeness: Friendly with other dogs.

Grooming and Physical Needs:
Grooming: Extensive grooming needed.
Coat: Wiry coat.
Shedding: Average shedder.
Exercise: Needs lots of exercise.
Indoors: Relatively inactive indoors.
Apartments: Not recommended for apartments.
Outdoor Space: Best with a large yard.
Climate: Does well in most climates.
Longevity: Short (under 10 years).

Height: Rough: 15.5 to 18.5 inches (male); 15 to 18 inches (female). Smooth: 15.5 to 21 inches (male); 15.5 to 20.5 inches (female).
Weight: 45 to 55 pounds (male); 30 to 45 (female).

History:
In the remote and rugged Pyrenees Mountains, along the border between France and Spain, the agile and alert Pyrenean Shepherd (pronounced peer-en-ee-en, with the stress on the second syllable) is still an indispensable farm dog and sheep herder today, as he has been for centuries. Farmers often pair the imposing Great Pyrenees, bred to guard the flocks, with the much smaller Pyrenean Shepherd, bred to herd them.

The Pyrenean Shepherd is an ancient breed—sheep and goat herding were so well established in the Pyrennes by 4000 BC that the region already showed the effects of overgrazing. Medieval tracts often mention the shepherds’ constant canine companions, and some artwork shows dogs of the same type as today’s Pyrenean Shepherd, even down to the ear crop.

In the 19th century, several Pyrenean Shepherds accompanied flocks of sheep imported to North America from the Pyrenees. Some of these were smooth-faced blue merles that may have served as foundation stock for the Australian Shepherd. In the 1970’s and 80’s more breeding stock was imported into the United States, and in 1987, the Pyrenean Shepherd Club of America was established.

Though still relatively rare outside his native France, the vivacious Pyrenean Shepherd, also called the Pyr Shep, is gaining devotees in several other countries. The breed was officially recognized by the Canadian Kennel Club in 1992, and was accepted into the Miscellaneous Class of the AKC on January 1, 2007.

Description:
The Pyrenean Shepherd is a small, high-energy, lean and sinewy dog with a vivacious, intelligent, and slightly mischievious expression. This lightweight athlete ideally should be the minimum possible weight for his height. The Pyr Shep comes in two varieties, the rough-faced (museau normal) and the smooth-faced (face-rase), which can be born in the same litter. In the rough-faced variety, the long hair on the face should have a blown-back look, giving the impression that the dog is always facing into the wind. In longer haired rough-faced Pyr Sheps, the coat can form natural cords. The smooth-faced variety does not have any long hair on the face, and though its coat is still fairly long, it’s generally shorter on the body than in the rough faced variety, with feathering on the back of the legs. Both varieties generally have double dewclaws on the hind legs.

Traditionally, the Pyrenean Shepherd’s ears are cropped straight across, about a third of the way down the ear, and the tail is docked. This practice originated in the Pyrenees to protect the dog from injury and infection while out working in the rugged countryside, however, neither docking nor cropping is a requirement for showing in the United States. Natural ears are rose or semi-prick (with approximately the top third to one half the ear falling forward or to the side). If the tail is left undocked, it should either be a natural bobtail or of sufficient length to reach the hock, with a crook in the end. The tail should not be carried above the line of the back, even when the dog is excited.

The top of the skull is almost flat, about as wide as it is deep, with a central furrow. The muzzle is wedge-shaped and slightly shorter than the length of the skull. There is no apparent stop. The head is generally triangular, similar to that of a brown bear. The mucous membranes of the mouth are black or heavily marked with black, and the nose and eye rims are black. The almond-shaped eyes are dark brown, except in blue merles, brindle merles, fawn merles and slate gray dogs, where the eyes can be all or part blue. A scissors bite is strongly preferred in the show ring, but a level bite is permitted.

The neck is long and muscular, blending nicely into the shoulders. The body is longer than the height at the withers for the rough faced variety and squarer in the smooth-faced. The chest reaches only to the elbow. The points of the shoulder blades should extend above the back. The line of the back itself is level, except at the loin, which arches higher. In rough-faced dogs the arch can be accentuated by the thick coat.

The Pyrenean Shepherd gets its power from excellent angulation in the rear—the long second thigh leading to a short hock gives the dog excellent leverage. This results in an efficient stride with a great deal of reach and drive that is very pleasing to the eye. Yet in spite of all the power of his gait, the Pyr Shep’s feet should not rise far from the ground. In fact, the French say the Pyr Shep “shaves the meadow”. When the Pyrenean Shepherd has the correct distinctive gait, the French call it “allure Pyrénéenne” (Pyrenean allure).

Notes:
The Pyrenean Shepherd looks like it would be difficult to groom, but in fact the coat requires less attention than you would think. If the dog’s coat forms cords, they need to be split a few times a year to prevent them from getting too thick. An experienced breeder can help novices learn how to do this. On non-corded dogs, a good combing or brushing once every week or two is generally sufficient, though the coat can vary quite a bit in the breed. Bathing should be kept to an absolute minimum, in order not to ruin the coat texture.

This breed needs extensive off-leash exercise. A good hour of off-leash walking through the countryside or a park where the dog can run off his seemingly boundless energy several times a week is strongly recommended.

You may hear three different names when people talk about this breed: Pyrenean Shepherd, Pyr Shep, or Berger des Pyrénées (the French name).

Personality:
Lively, alert, and clever, mischievous, yet biddable, the Pyrenean Shepherd is very loyal and devoted to his master and family and wants to be involved in all family activities. A highly intelligent breed, the Pyrenean Shepherd can learn almost anything and tends to excel at performance events such as herding, obedience, agility, tracking, and even ring sport.

To perform at the highest levels, Pyr Sheps need a very close working relationship with their owner and a sense that the activity is a shared project. Pyrenean Shepherds have their own style of herding, very different from that of Border Collies. The breed can be somewhat sensitive to correction and does best with an experienced owner and consistent, positive training methods such as clicker training.

Naturally impish and playful, the Pyrenean Shepherd usually gets along well with children if socialized with them thoroughly from puppyhood. Pyr Sheps also tend to be good with other pets in the family, though training is generally needed to help them learn to control their herding impulses.

The Pyrenean Shepherd is a good watchdog, and will bark a warning whenever it seems necessary. However, to keep this useful trait from becoming a nuisance, owners should train their dogs at an early age not to bark excessively and to stop barking on command.

Because this breed has lived in relative isolation for centuries in areas where strangers were not necessarily welcome, the Pyrenean Shepherd is naturally distrustful and wary of people and dogs outside the family unit. They tend to be one-family dogs, so in order to fit well into modern society, Pyrenean Shepherds need extensive early and ongoing socialization with all manner of people, animals, and situations. Owners should be sure to give puppies extensive positive social stimulation with people from the start. Even when properly socialized, some Pyr Sheps may not be friendly outside the family group.

Behavior:
Friendliness: Very wary of strangers—highly protective.
Independence: Needs people a lot.
Dominance: High.
Other Pets: Good with other pets if raised with them from puppyhood.
Combativeness: Can be a bit dog-aggressive.

Grooming and Physical Needs:
Grooming: Regular grooming needed.
Coat: Medium-long coat (rough); Feathered coat (smooth).
Shedding: Average shedder.
Exercise: Needs lots of exercise.
Indoors: Moderately active indoors.
Apartments: Will be okay in an apartment if sufficiently exercised.
Outdoor Space: A small yard is sufficient.
Climate: Does well in most climates.
Longevity: Long (15+ years).