Prep Your Pet to Dress in His Halloween Best

Height:       11-13 in.

Weight:       5-12 lbs.

Life Span:   13-15 yrs.

The Chinese Crested is a fine-boned, elegant and graceful dog who makes a loving companion, playful and entertaining.  He adores food and will leap about in anticipation of a tiny bite.  There are two types, the Hairless with hair only on the head, tail and feet; the Powderpuff who is completely covered with hair.  A friendly family dog, not aggressive towards children or other animals.  they do not make good kennel dogs, but love the companionship of a home.  They do best as a one dog family and sometimes do not like to be over handled by strangers.  Odorless and hairless, they are a very low maintenance breed.

Dog Parks–what a great idea!!  Imagine being able to take your buddy to a big, open field and letting him or her safely play and run around with dozens of other dogs.  What a great way to provide exercise, especially for those rambunctious, high-energy teenagers that often become destructive and “self-employed” at home when they have nothing else to do.  How many of us have come home to torn sofa cushions, shredded plants, neighbors complaining about incessant barking, etc.?

Dog parks can provide a wonderful opportunity for your dog to learn appropriate dog-to-dog behavior with dogs of all ages, sizes and temperaments.  In additon to all these benefits, dog parks often offer us humans a chance to get out of the house and spend some time socializing and meeting new friends.

Most people who take their dogs to dog parks are respectful, polite, responsible, and look out not only for their own dog, but for other people’s dogs as well.  After all, if one dog gets hurt, everyone is affected.  And most dog parks are well maintained, clean and safe.  With so many benefits to taking your dog to a dog park, are there any disadvantages?

Not a month goes by where a dog has been hurt at a dog park.  And in 99% of the cases, it all had to do with the attitude of the human.  One incident occurred where a guy brought his two dogs to a park and as soon as the dogs entered, they “zeroed” in on a Lab who was resting underneath a picnic table.  Within seconds, cries and growls filled the air.  People rushed to help the Lab who sustained multiple puncture wounds.  When the man finally arrived at the scene, he simply declared, “Hey, dogs are dogs, they were only playing.”

On another occasion, a woman came directly from a rescue with her new 80 lb. dog and wanted to see how he would behave around other dogs.  The dog attacked a small, blind Pekingese and caused several thousands of dollars in medical care.

In other cases, dogs are hurt because of how they play; some dogs are much more physical than others, resulting in unintentional injuries.  Others never learned appropriate dog etiquette because of the lack of proper socialization when they were young.  As a result, their pushy behavior results in misunderstandings that triggers fights.

In addition, not every dog likes to visit dog parks.  Older dogs sometimes care less about being around other dogs and are perfectly content interacting only with their humans.  Well-intentioned as some people are, they can facilitate problems because they fail to read their dog’s body language, which is telling them, “Get me out of here!”

So, what should you look for?  Visit a park before you bring your dog.  Talk to people.  Safe parks all have one thing in common: a good park is one where people will not put up with aggressive dogs and they look out for one another.  Make sure there is a separate area for small dogs.  How clean is the park?  Is water availabe?  If you find yourself stepping over mounds of feces, it’s a good bet that park isn’t for you and your dog.  See, if the park has a ranger that overseas activities.  This is rare, but really says alot about safety.

Once you’ve chosen a park, don’t bring food or your dog’s favorite toys as that often causes problems.  Notice how other dogs are behaving and if play becomes too rowdy, interrupt it before a problem arises.  If your dog seems fearful, leave the park.

Know your dog.  If your dog displays aggression or fearfulness, don’t take your dog to a dog park.  You can work on behavioral problems with a trainer, but in the meantime, you can take your dog for walks or jogs, play fetch, hide-and-go seek and “find-it.”

There are wonderful dog parks out there that benefit both people and dogs.  To find them, do a little investigation, use your good common sense, be responsible and keep a watchful eye.  You and your dog can have a lot of fun!

French Bulldog

Height: up to 12 inches.
Weight: up to 28 pounds.

History:
The French Bulldog was originally developed in England as a miniature version of the English Bulldog. These small bulldogs were adopted by the Nottingham lace workers who went to France and took their dogs with them. Streetwalkers in France greatly admired the imports and this led to the name French Bulldog. When the breed was eventually brought back to England for exhibition, the English made a big uproar about the name French Bulldog, since the Bulldog was originally an English breed and because the Bulldog was a traditional symbol of English culture. The French Bulldog is a pleasant, easy-care companion.

Description:
A sturdy little bulldog with large, erect, rounded bat ears and a flat muzzle. The square flat head is not as massive as the English Bulldog’s. The forehead is rounded. Height doesn’t matter as long as the dog is well balanced. The dog should be pear- shaped, with the shoulders wider than the tail area. There are two weight classes of French Bulldog, 19-22 lbs. and 22-28 lbs. The short, soft, easy-care coat comes in brindle, fawn, white and combinations of brindle or fawn with white. The skin is soft and fairly loose, making the dog very pleasant to pet. The prominent round eyes are dark colored and the bite is undershot. The tail is either straight or cork-screw.

Notes:
Particularly good for the elderly. Clean, quiet and companionable. Sensitive to temperature extremes. Overheating this dog may cause heatstroke; prefers cooler climates for this reason. Prone to eye and respiratory problems. If too overweight, the French Bulldog may have trouble breathing. May wheeze, snore and be gassy. This breed cannot swim because of his physique, so be very careful around swimming pools.

Personality:
Very sweet, playful and affectionate. Bright and easygoing. Curious and alert. Devoted; often bonds strongly to a single person. Needs lots of companionship and will not thrive without it. Fairly willful, but can be trained if the owner is patient. Can be a bit snappish if irritable or uncomfortable. Frenchies generally don’t like other dogs, as they are possessive of their owners.

Behavior:
Children: Best with older, considerate children.
Friendliness: Reserved with strangers.
Independence: Needs people a lot.
Dominance: Low.
Other Pets: Good with other pets if raised with them from puppyhood.

Grooming and Physical Needs:
Grooming: Very little grooming needed.
Coat: Short coat.
Shedding: Average shedder.
Exercise: Very little exercise needed.
Indoors: Moderately active indoors.
Apartments: Good for apartment living.
Outdoor Space: Does all right without a yard.
Climate: Prefers cool climates.
Longevity: Average (10 to 12 years).

If there’s one place most dogs don’t enjoy visiting, it’s the vet’s office. Some get so stressed, they pant excessively, cry, even tremble - and that’s while they’re still in the waiting room! If vet visits stress your dog out, here are ways you can make the trip more relaxing and even enjoyable:

Make a visit to the vet’s office seem “normal” by taking your dog to the vet’s office when he doesn’t need to go.  Most vet practices are more than willing to work with you to help your dog feel comfortable there.  Any time you get a chance, take a ride up to the veterinarian’s office and bring some fabulous treats like boiled chicken, string cheese, freeze dried liver or her favorite smelly treat.  When you arrive, take her into the outer waiting room, reward her with treats and leave.  If you have talked to your vet’s office ahead of time, you can plan to go when they have a chance to greet your dog and reward her with treats.  Ask if you can take your dog into an open exam room, reward her with treats and leave. Make sure to clear all of this with your vet and the staff and always be respectful of their time and needs.

Acquaint your dog with the procedures that might happen at the vet.  First, make sure your dog is comfortable being handled from her head to her paws. If she’s not, consult your trainer for help. Then ask your vet to show you the ways they handle dogs during routine examinations including ear, teeth, limb and joint exams and temperature readings. Practice these methods at home to help your dog get more familiar with them. Be sure to reward her with a steady stream of yummy treats to form positive associations. You might also want to acclimate your dog to wearing a muzzle just in case one is necessary. Practice putting the muzzle on and then reward her by letting her lick something yummy like peanut butter off your fingers.  You don’t even have to fasten it in the beginning, just have her wear it for a couple of seconds and then remove it.  Work up to having her wear it for just a couple of minutes and then remove it. 

Remember: never hit, spank, or smack your dog.  Your dog should trust human hands and be calm whenever hands are reaching for her.

Height:       male: 11 in.; female: 10 in.

Weight:       15-21 lbs.

Life Span:   12-14 yrs.

The West Highland White Terrier is a small, well-balanced, hardy looking terrier that exhibits good showmanship.  They are elegant with a beautiful, shiny white coat and bright, button eyes, shaggy eyebrows and a black nose.  The “Westie” is an intelligent dog that learns quickly.  They love human companionship and will play with their family inside or out.  Their size make them great apartment dwellers, however, they are home in the country too.  An excellent companion for children of all ages.  They are considered one of the most popular breeds.  Amongst terrier’s, they rank the highest hunter of small animals.

Tips to help your rescue dog:

There he is, Danny, your beloved, new rescue dog, six weeks into the adoption, sitting amid the torn-up couch pillows and looking at you with sorrowful brown eyes. He knows he did something wrong because of the tone and pitch of your voice, but he isn’t sure what. Your frustration melts as he hesitantly turns and sits obediently, looking quizzically at you with his sweet face tilted to one side.

At that moment, you realize you are in over your head. You are in love with Danny, but your husband is going to have a conniption fit over the expense of the ruined pillows. Plus, you promised him you would teach Danny to behave, but the truth is, you do not know how to do that!

To make matters worse, there was that unexpected, $400 veterinary bill last week for Danny’s abscessed teeth and gum disease issues. Your husband was really upset about that and blamed the rescue group for not giving you a heads-up about the pup’s dental problems. You wonder, “What if I can’t make this work? What if he wants to return Danny to the shelter?”

This is a familiar scenario to the adoption counselors at shelters and rescue groups. Whether the adopted animal is a dog, cat or rabbit, it is easy for some adoptive caregivers to feel upset when unexpected medical bills or behavioral problems crop up right after the adoption. Here are some tips to help you through some common post-adoption transition issues: 

1)       First of all, relax and take a deep breath. Adopting is a rewarding experience that not only saves the life of the animal, but enriches the life of the caregiver. Remember, no animal whether he is from a shelter, a breeder or elsewhere is perfect. Challenges should be an expected part of the experience and almost all challenges can be resolved. Before you adopt, be sure the time in your life is right for adding a new furry family member. Then be committed to making it work. Allow yourself time to work out whatever issues arise.

2)       If you’re adopting from a shelter, be sure to weigh all the options in order to select the companion animal that fits best with your schedule, lifestyle and abilities. You may feel sorry for that cute West Highland Terrier with diabetes, but are you prepared to follow the strict diet and injection regimen? Or would the Golden Retriever with no known ailments be a better choice? Speak with an adoption counselor and ask them to help you find the right companion for you.

3)       Remember you are not alone. Shelters and rescue groups are full of people who love animals and want to help you succeed with your adoption. Most have experienced adoption counselors and behaviorists that can help. They are one phone call away and a great place to start when issues surface. If you do not get the support you need from the shelter where you adopted, try calling another rescue group in your area. They have a networking system in your community that can help, and these animal lovers do not care where you adopted your new friend.

4)       Try not to blame the shelter if an unexpected health issue crops up. Many shelters have vets on staff that do cursory exams on the animals, but most shelters don’t have the budget to pay for more exploratory, diagnostic examinations. They depend on the patience and kindness of “rescue-minded” caregivers who are willing to be responsible for their adopted animal’s care.  Most adopted animals are healthy and happy, but diseases such as kennel cough have a 5-7 day incubation period and may not surface until you have taken him home. Some kennels will offer to provide the medicine to treat this common ailment, so be sure to ask for help. Other health issues may not be discovered until your new companion is in a home and can be monitored regularly. For instance, bladder infections that can occur in female dogs who “hold it” too long because they do not want to urinate in their kennels can be hard for shelter staff to spot in a kennel situation.

 5)  Realize that behavioral issues are also hard to spot, especially if the animal came into the shelter as a stray. People who turn in their companion animals may not tell the whole truth when they surrender the animal. Also behaviors change in the home as the animal overcomes fear and becomes more confident and playful. The scared, sweet pup in the kennel may be a ball of fire and energy at home!  In short, shelters can only provide so much information even with the best intentions, so try to be patient. What can be helpful is to call the shelter and explore what experts or trainers they available to help you.

Height:       male: 27.5 in.; female: 25.5 in.

Weight:       male: 80 lbs.; female: 70 lbs.

Life Span:   10-12 yrs.

The Komondor (plural is Komondorok) is a big, muscular dog with plenty of bone and substance.  They are covered with an unusually heavy, white corded coat which resembles an old-fashioned string mop.  Puppies are white and fluffy and tend to form cords about 3 to 4 months of age.  They are very strong and agile for their size.  A hardy, healthy dog they can tolerate changing temperatures.  Keeping the coat of a Komondor is a challenge and should not be taken lightly.  Cords continue to grow and must be maintained by dividing new hair growth every two to three months from the skin out to the existing cords.  If not trimmed regularly the coat will reach the ground by the time they are 6 years old.  Another consideration is that the coat is always picking up debris from outside like dirt, leaves, twigs, small living creatures that need to be removed.

1. Continuous rapid barking, midrange pitch: “Call the pack! There is a potential problem! Someone is coming into our territory!” Continuous barking but a bit slower and pitched lower: “The intruder [or danger] is very close. Get ready to defend yourself!”

2. Barking in rapid strings of three or four with pauses in between, midrange pitch: “I suspect that there may be a problem or an intruder near our territory. I think that the leader of the pack should look into it.”

3. Prolonged or incessant barking, with moderate to long intervals between each utterance: “Is there anybody there? I’m lonely and need companionship.” This is most often the response to confinement or being left alone for long periods of time.

4. One or two sharp short barks, midrange pitch: “Hello there!” This is the most typical greeting sound.

5. Single sharp short bark, lower midrange pitch: “Stop that!” This is often given by a mother dog when disciplining her puppies but may also indicate annoyance in any dog, such as when disturbed from sleep or if hair is pulled during grooming and so forth.

6. Single sharp short bark, higher midrange: “What’s this?” or “Huh?” This is a startled or surprised sound. If it is repeated two or three times its meaning changes to “Come look at this!” alerting the pack to a novel event. This same type of bark, but not quite as short and sharp, is used to mean “Come here!” Many dogs will use this kind of bark at the door to indicate that they want to go out. Lowering the pitch to a relaxed midrange means “Terrific!” or some other similar expletive, such as “Oh, great!” My cairn terrier, for example, who loves to jump, will give this single bark of joy when sent over the high jump. Other dogs give this same bark when given their food dish.

7. Single yelp or very short high-pitched bark: “Ouch!” This is in response to a sudden, unexpected pain.

8. Series of yelps: “I’m hurting!” “I’m really scared” This is in response to severe fear and pain.

9. Stutter-bark, midrange pitch: If a dog’s bark were spelled “ruff,” the stutter-bark would be spelled “ar-ruff.” It means “Let’s play!” and is used to initiate playing behavior.

10. Rising bark: This is a bit hard to describe, although once you’ve heard it, it is unmistakable. It is usually a series of barks, each of which starts in the middle range but rises sharply in pitch - almost a bark-yelp, though not quite that high. It is a play bark, used during rough-and- tumble games, that shows excitement and translates as “This is fun!”

Height:       male: 25-27 in.; female: 24-26 in.

Weight:       male: 85 lbs.; female: 70 lbs.

Life Span:  10-13 yrs.

A Rhodesian Ridgeback is known for the ridge on their back!  It is formed by the hair growing in the opposite direction to the rest of their reddish coat.  They are very strong and muscular dogs with a symetrical outline capable of great endurance with speed.